Condoriri massif
Condor Head,
Cabeza de Cóndor: The "Bolivian Matterhorn"
Condoriri massif
Condor Head,
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Tour Summary
Towering at 5,648 meters (18,530 feet), Cabeza de Cóndor (Condor's Head) is the most imposing and majestic peak in the Condoriri Massif.
Renowned for its striking aesthetics and sharp ridges, it is frequently compared to the world-famous Matterhorn in Switzerland. Due to its sustained exposure, technical terrain, and the varied alpine skills required to reach the summit, this climb offers an exhilarating challenge for experienced mountaineers. This expedition is not recommended for beginners.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Legend of the Wings: The massif gets its name because the central peak resembles the head of a majestic Andean Condor (Cabeza de Cóndor), while the neighboring peaks flank it like wide-open wings.
Custom Expeditions: Looking for a bigger challenge? We can easily customize your itinerary to include additional classic peaks in the area, such as Pequeño Alpamayo, Pyramid Peak, or Austria Peak.
Day 1: LA PAZ - BASE CAMP(LAGUNA CHIAR KHOTA)
Following a scenic 2.5-hour drive from La Paz, we reach La Rinconada, the trailhead where our pack mules will be waiting to transport the heavy expedition gear. From here, an easy 1-hour hike brings us to Laguna Chiar Khota (4,620 m / 15,157 ft), our base camp for the expedition. At this lakeside camp, we will set up our tents or opt to stay in a rustic local refuge known as "The Fisherman’s House." The rest of the afternoon is dedicated to resting, enjoying the stunning mountain vistas, and taking short, gentle hikes to aid active acclimatization.
Day 2: SUMMIT DAY (CABEZA DE CONDOR) & RETURN BASE CAMP
We begin with an alpine start, leaving camp well before dawn after a hearty breakfast. The approach leads us through rocky moraine terrain to the edge of the glacier. Here, we gear up with crampons, harnesses, and ice axes to begin ascending snow and ice slopes averaging 40° to 45° in steepness. As we approach the upper mountain, we navigate a narrow, technical couloir (gully) featuring mixed rock and ice climbing. Emerging from the couloir, we tackle the aesthetic, highly exposed summit ridge that leads directly to the apex of Cabeza de Cóndor.
After celebrating at the summit, we carefully retrace our steps along the exposed ridge and rappel or down-climb the technical sections back to the glacier. After a brief rest, we continue our descent to base camp.
Total Time: 10 to 13 hours.
Day 3: BASE CAMP TO LA PAZ
After a relaxed morning, we pack up our camp and equipment. The pack mules will carry our gear back down to La Rinconada, where our private transportation will be waiting to drive us back to La Paz, arriving by early afternoon.
Certified bilingual Bolivian Mountain Guide (English/Spanish).
Private round-trip transport from La Paz.
All meals and hot drinks during the expedition.
Mules and porters to transport group gear and personal duffel bags.
High-quality 4-season tents (The North Face or similar).
Group dining tent with tables, chairs, and full kitchen setup.
National Park entrance fees and permits.
Technical Group Gear: Ropes, pickets, ice screws, and safety equipment.
Personal Mountain Gear Rental: Helmet, ice axe, climbing harness, gaiters, and professional double mountaineering boots.
Please take with you:
Packs: 35L-40L daypack (for summit day) and a durable duffel bag or large backpack (for the mules).
Sleeping Gear: 4-season sleeping bag (rated to at least -10°C / 14°F).
Footwear: Comfortable trekking boots or approach shoes for Day 1 and Day 3.
Layering System: Moisture-wicking thermal base layers (wool or synthetic), fleece mid-layer, and heavy down jacket for camp/summit morning.
Outerwear: Waterproof/windproof hardshell jacket and pants (Gore-Tex or similar).
Hands & Feet: Heavy waterproof mountaineering gloves, liner gloves, and thick wool hiking socks.
Sun Protection: Category 3 or 4 glacier glasses (UV protection), sunscreen, and lip balm.
Hydration: Durable water bottle (like a Nalgene) or insulated flask (hydration bladder hoses freeze easily).
Tour details: